Staining that piece of bare-wood furniture will not only produce a sense of satisfaction, but it will also give you a fine piece that can be handed down through the generations--tomorrow's antique.

The key to success is preparation. Once you've decided which stain you will use (most paint stores will allow you to test the color before your purchase), gather all of your equipment.

STAIN: This is the color pigment applied to wood that will enhance the natural grain of the wood. Soft woods (pine, etc.) will absorb stain faster. Hard woods (ash, mahogany, etc.) will take a longer time to absorb.

VARNISH: This is the protective cover that makes the piece shine and the wood last longer. Your choices include a gloss (a very shiny surface) or satin (a mellow sheen). NOTE: There are stain/varnish combinations. The mix combines the steps of staining and varnishing into one. This comes in handy when you are in a hurry, have limited space, or for smaller projects. But it also restricts the quality control needed for varnish layers.

PAINT THINNER: This is used for thinning the stain and varnish, as well as for clean up.

BRUSHES : The size depends on how big your piece is. For your first project, it is recommended that you start out with a small 1.5-2" brush.

STIRRING STICK: This is used to stir the stain in order to reach any color pigment on the bottom of the can.

SOFT RAGS: These are used to apply the stain, and for clean up.

SANDPAPER: You will need a middle grade and a fine grade.

NEWSPAPER: This is to protect your work area.

TWO PIECES OF WOOD: These would be two 2x4's cut to the size of the piece you are staining. Place the item on top of them while the chemicals (stain and varnish) are drying. If the item is allowed to dry touching the newspaper, the paper and print will stick to your project (not a pretty picture).

PROCEDURE

First, put the newspaper down over the work area, giving yourself plenty of room for your supplies and labor. Place your piece on top of the two 2x4s.

PREPARE THE SURFACE : Take the middle-grade sandpaper and sand the entire surface of the item. Take special care with the areas that will be seen when the item is on display. Less care can be taken with the undersides. With places that will not be seen, you won't have to sand at all.

Take a soft, lint-free rag with some paint thinner on it, and wipe the item down. This is to be sure that no wood particles are left on the surface from the sanding process. Set this rag aside, for you will be using it again in the same way.

STAINING: You must shake the can of stain vigorously before you open it to make sure that all the color pigments are evenly distributed within the medium. Even after you open the can, take a paint stick and stir for several minutes.

If you are unsure about how the stain will look, test the color on the underside at a place that's smooth. If you find that the stain is too dark, add some paint thinner. This will NOT change the quality of your work, only lighten the color and increase the amount of stain you have at your disposal. You will, however, have to stop to stir the color more often.

Now you have some choices in applying the stain. You can:

a) Dip your brush into the can and press out any excess. Apply stain. Brush in even strokes, one section at a time. Using this method, you can either wipe off the excess stain with a soft cloth or you can leave it on for a 'painted' look.

OR

b) Dip a clean, soft cloth into the stain and apply to the surface. Using a cloth, you will cover less area at a time, but you will have more control over the color. For example, if you're not quite sure how dark you want to go, this allows you to wipe off the color almost immediately. If a darker tint is desired, you may re-apply and wipe again.

The method you decide to use must be applied the same way for the entire piece, except for the areas that will not be seen. These areas can be saved for last. The stain can then be thinned out with paint thinner and applied like a paint.

During the staining step, you can turn your piece upside down on the 2x4's without damaging the color. This is true only if you've wiped the stain off, not if you 'painted' it on.

If the piece is too light, apply more stain with the brush or cloth method.

If the stain is too dark, take a clean cloth and rub until you arrive at the color you want. You can also take a rag dipped in paint thinner (not the one we used after sanding) and rub the area that is too dark. Rub until you reach the effect you are looking for. This, of course, will not be as successful as applying small amounts of stain at a time.

REMEMBER: The coat of varnish will also darken the color.

Let the stain dry before adding the varnish. Check the directions on the can to see how long you have to wait. It usually doesn't take very long--sometimes as little as 10 minutes.

Follow directions on the stain can for clean-up.

APPLYING VARNISH

Applying varnish correctly is crucial in handing down 'tomorrow's antique'. This step CANNOT be rushed.

First, take the cloth dipped in paint thinner that we used after sanding, and again wipe the piece down. This is to make sure there are no dust particles left on the surface.

Don't shake the can of varnish unless the directions on the can require it. Shaking will create air bubbles. Dip your brush into the can, and press out excess.

Apply varnish in even strokes, one section at a time, going with the grain. Make sure you apply to all surfaces, including the under sides. If you miss a spot, moisture will seep in and your wood will slowly begin to warp.

Check surface at eye level for areas that you missed and for air bubbles. If you spot either, brush them out. Let dry.

Check the directions on the can for how long you must wait between coats. You must wait the full time recommended, otherwise you will end up with a perpetually sticky surface for years to come. Items will stick to the surface of your completed piece.

If you cannot get to certain places, you must wait for the varnish to dry before you can turn it over on the 2x4's and get to the under side. Once you've completed the under side, however, you might be able to turn the item back, and continue with your second varnish coat, as long as the part you've just varnished doesn't touch any part of the 2x4's.

Once the first coat of varnish is dry, take the fine grade sandpaper, and gently sand out any air bubbles or 'bumps' of varnish. Do this only on the surfaces that will be visible. Undersides only need 1 or 2 coats of varnish and need no sanding.

Take the dust cloth, lightly dipped in paint thinner, and dust off the particles left behind.

At this point, it may look like you've dulled the shine. On the contrary, you've prepared the surface for the next coat. This will also give you a smooth-as-glass finish by the time you've added all the coats of varnish. Three coats, sanding between each coat, is recommended for a piece that will receive average wear. More coats will be needed if it will see high levels of traffic.

Using these step-by-step instructions will give you a professional-looking, long-lasting wood finish to your 'tomorrow's antique.'